Ciccarelli, D.; Alessandrini, V.; Bertoni, D., and Rangel-Buitrago, N., 0000. Applying the vegetation-based risk index (VRI) to Mediterranean coasts: Lessons from Maremma Park, Italy.
This study focuses on a comprehensive coastal risk index derived from geological, socioeconomic, cultural, and ecological parameters. The primary aim is to expand the application of a vegetation-based risk index (VRI) to a distinct geographical context along the Italian coastline, the Maremma Regional Park. By generating clear and intuitive maps of coastal risk, the VRI identifies the key variable categories that significantly affect risk assessment. Despite the protected status of the study area, the findings reveal elevated risk levels at specific sites, largely driven by coastal erosion and human-induced pressures. In the northern area of the park, recommendations include limiting urbanization and tourism-related activities, establishing controlled access zones, and fostering community involvement in conservation initiatives. In the southern area, stricter access regulations, active restoration of native vegetation, and regular environmental impact assessments are necessary to mitigate stress and ensure long-term ecological sustainability. The VRI proves to be a valuable tool for providing actionable insights into targeted coastal management, addressing specific threats, and assisting stakeholders in making informed decisions. This study highlights the importance of continuous monitoring and research to adapt to changing environmental conditions and drive innovative, sustainable management solutions.
El Selmy, A.S.; Kamel, W.A.; Moghazy, H., and Refat, R.M., 0000. Artificial islands as a coastal protection strategy in the Suez Canal: A numerical modeling approach.
Artificial islands are emerging as sustainable solutions for coastal protection, sediment control, and maritime infrastructure enhancement. This study assessed the feasibility and performance of lotus-shaped artificial islands in the Bitter Lakes section of the Suez Canal, a strategically important and high-traffic maritime corridor. Using numerical simulations conducted in MIKE 21, the impacts on wave energy dissipation, sediment transport, and navigation were evaluated based on bathymetric, tidal, wind, and current data sets. The proposed islands reduced shoreline erosion by 45% and increased sediment deposition by 27%, contributing to long-term coastal stability and reduced dredging requirements. Wave heights within the protected zones decreased by 30%, improving vessel handling and shortening queuing times by up to 15%. Current velocities dropped by 30%–40%, lowering risks of grounding and anchor dragging. These hydrodynamic improvements led to an estimated 5%–8% reduction in vessel fuel consumption per transit. Ecologically, the islands are projected to increase marine habitat area by 35%. By moderating turbulence and stabilizing sediments, they may facilitate recolonization by benthic fauna and enhance oxygenation, as observed in analogous restoration projects like the Marker Wadden, The Netherlands. Turbidity reduction is also expected to improve light penetration, potentially enabling submerged vegetation recovery. Economically, the design is projected to reduce annual dredging and maintenance costs by up to 30%, with estimated long-term savings of $1–2 billion over a decade. Construction costs are estimated between $250 and $700 million. These findings highlight the potential of lotus-shaped islands as a scalable, nature-based alternative to conventional coastal infrastructure, offering both environmental and economic advantages.
Power, M.A. and Brown, C.D., 0000. Assessing the relationships among protected areas, disturbance, and ecological integrity on Newfoundland’s coastal vegetated dunes.
Vegetated sand dune systems are a relatively rare form of coastline on the Island of Newfoundland, but they provide diverse benefits to regional ecology and human landscape use. Despite their importance to coastal biodiversity and inland protection, few vegetated sand dune systems are located within protected areas in Newfoundland. Under little to no protection, many of these dune systems are vulnerable to anthropogenic disturbances (e.g., dune trampling and all-terrain vehicle use). Boreal vegetated dunes, such as those in Atlantic Canada, are also subject to extensive natural disturbances that result from storm and precipitation events. Current climate change projections point to an increase in these types of events in Newfoundland, which, combined with the ongoing anthropogenic disturbance regime, may overwhelm the natural rejuvenation processes of dune coastlines. Employing a transect-plot method of data collection and following a protected area approach, this study characterizes the vegetation cover, plant community, and disturbance features on Newfoundland’s dune systems. Vegetation cover was sparser in unprotected areas, which were also associated with a greater cover of nonendemic plant species. Regardless of protection status, substrate disturbance was linked with loss of total vegetation cover across the system. This research provides important empirical findings on the relationships among protected areas status, vegetation cover, plant community, and substrate disturbance on Newfoundland’s coastal vegetated dunes, highlighting the need for additional land management initiatives to protect these vulnerable landscapes under the combined effects of human visitation and climate change.
McPherran, K.A.; Krafft, D.R., and McFall, B.C., 0000. Categorization of nearshore nourishment mobility using empirical depth of closure methods.
Adding sediment to an active beach profile as a nearshore nourishment can offer various benefits. These benefits frequently relate to cost-effectively providing a dynamic sediment source and potentially dissipating wave energy. Both positive impacts and costs of nearshore nourishments are strongly influenced by depth, so project placement depth is commonly assessed early in project planning. Project depths are often compared to the depth of closure and past examples following an “active” or “stable” classification. Nearshore nourishments are generally defined as “active” if they move quickly and “stable” if they do not move or move slowly. These definitions vary between examples, so the concept is revisited with a compilation of 40 case studies and a new classification system is proposed. Using these data, nearshore nourishments are classified as “very active”, “moderately active”, or “stable to slightly active” using two techniques to calculate the depth of closure from sediment characteristics and wave data. Measurements of net sediment transport rates decrease between the historical “very active”, “moderately active”, and “stable to slightly active” examples. Substantial variability occurs, but this grouping outperforms previous techniques and contains additional information, including the normalized berm migration rate (NBMR). The NBMR (berm migration rate normalized by initial berm placement length) is taken into consideration in this new classification system, which addresses shortcomings of previous methods by incorporating both the temporal scale of migration and the initial size of the nourishment. The mean NBMRs for “very active,” “moderately active,” and “stable to slightly active” categories were 16.1, 3.1, and 1.3 (m3/month)/m, respectively. The NBMR for all 40 historical sites ranged over almost two orders of magnitude (0.0–83.7 [m3/month]/m), highlighting the need for an updated classification system that takes initial berm size and temporal scale into consideration. This new classification system aims to improve rapid, scoping-level estimations of nearshore nourishment stability.
Numbere, A.O. and Adindu, K.C., 0000. Effect of deforestation and hydrocarbon pollution on aboveground biomass and carbon stock of mangroves in Eagle Island, Niger Delta, Nigeria.
Hydrocarbon pollution and deforestation are major drivers of mangrove degradation in the Niger Delta. Hydrocarbon pollution and deforestation are hypothesized to negatively affect the aboveground biomass (AGB) and decrease carbon stock (CS). This research studied structural characteristics, AGB and CS of mangroves, and soil chemical concentration in locations with different pollution and deforestation gradients in the Niger Delta. Nine 400 m2 plots were established in random block design to determine the effect of pollution and deforestation on CS. In total, 171 mangrove tree stump structural characteristics and importance values (IV) were estimated, whereas 27 soil samples were collected from nine plots (n = 9). Chemical concentration significantly differed between forested and deforested soils (P < 0.05), with deforested soil having higher chemical concentrations. Similarly, CS was significantly different between high and low deforested plots (P < 0.05), with the low deforested plots having higher CS (1.555 Mg/ha) than high deforested plots (0.045 Mg/ha). The correlation between the length and width of mangrove stems indicates that black mangrove species have the highest correlation coefficient (R = 0.69), followed by red (R = 0.63) and white (R = 0.61). The red mangrove has higher IV, AGB, and CS. Our results indicate that deforestation increases soil chemical concentration and thus affects AGB and CS in the Niger Delta.
da Silva, C.V.; Vanz, R.; de Freitas, M.A.V., and Hunt, J.D., 0000. Hydrodynamic strategies for enhancing water flow in the Patos Lagoon estuary under extreme climate events.
The Patos Lagoon estuary, located in southern Brazil, plays a crucial role in regulating freshwater outflow from inland regions to the South Atlantic Ocean. Recent extreme weather events, such as historic May 2024 floods, have highlighted the importance of efficient estuarine discharge mechanisms to prevent prolonged flooding in adjacent areas. This study investigates the hydrodynamic behavior of the Rio Grande access channel and proposes alternative geometrical configurations to enhance flow during high lagoonlevels. A three-dimensional computational fluid dynamics model using the Shear Stress Transport k-ω turbulence model was employed to simulate and compare the performance of the existing channel layout with a modified design featuring a gradual Venturi-shaped constriction. The results indicate that the proposed geometry can increase the average flow rate by up to 26% compared with the current configuration, suggesting potential benefits for flood mitigation scenarios. An estimated USD 1.25 billion investment will be required to enhance the channel’s water flow capacity under extreme conditions, which would represent only about 12.5% of the flood-related damages to regions affect by the May 2024 floods in Lake Guaíba and Patos Lagoon. This comparison underscores the economic justification and strategic importance of the proposed intervention, demonstrating viability for this undertaking. The findings are interpreted in light of observed dynamics during real events, recognizing that the jetty system (Molhes da Barra) plays a crucial role in supporting outflow during extreme conditions. This study provides a numerical framework to assess structural optimization in estuarine systems and contributes to ongoing discussions about sustainable hydraulic management under increasing climate variability.
Shalini, G.; Karapurkar, D.; Ramakrishnan, R.; Hegde, V.S., and Korakoppa, M.M., 0000. Sand bypassing across tropical river mouths: Implications for the provenance of beach sands, west coast of India.
The current notion is that, due to high energy, sand bypassing does not occur across the river mouths in tropical coasts, so the area between two river mouths, or between a river mouth and headland or between two headlands, is defined as a cell for sediment budget studies. Contrary to this general notion, heavy mineral compositions from beaches between the Gangolli and the Sita-Swarna rivers and north of the Panchagangavali (locally also called as Gangolli, henceforth refered to as Gangaolli) River along the west coast of India indicate sand bypassing the estuarine mouth from south of the Sita-Swarna River. This heavy mineral study of beaches of the Sita-Swarna and Gangolli estuary indicated two generations of ilmenites: one contributed by the modern fluvial system and another from recycled and offshore sources. Two generations of rutiles and zircon are also suggestive of recent origin and recycled sources from older cycles. The presence of both low-Mg and high-Mg hornblende in the beach sands suggests contribution from felsic and mafic rocks, respectively, while minerals like kyanite and garnet of pyrope type in the sands of the Sita-Swarna and Gangolli beaches are characteristic of granulite and khondalitic sources. The absence of such rocks in the Sita-Swarna and Gangolli catchment, the presence of rocks with such minerals in the Netravati catchment south of the Sita-Swarna River, and ilmenite-magnetite probably derived from St. Mary’s Island to the southwest of the Sita-Swarna River all imply sand bypassing from the adjacent beaches brought by the alongshore current crossing the Sita-Swarna, Malpe (Udyavara), Mulki, and Netravati-Gurpur rivers.
Fatema, N.; Ahmed, S., and Hasan, K., 0000. Assessing the adaptive capacity of coastal communities to climate change in Bangladesh.
This study uses econometric methods to examine the local-level adaptation capacity of coastal communities by integrating ecological variables with livelihood assets from the sustainable livelihood framework. A random sample of 384 households from six coastal villages selected based on forest proximity, and reliance on agriculture was surveyed. An ordinary least squares model analyzed the socioeconomic and geographic impacts on five adaptive capacity domains: physical, human, social, financial, and natural resources (accessibility and availability). In addition, principal component analysis explored the relationships among indicators within these domains. The findings indicate that households have high scores in physical and human capital, whereas the diversity of natural and financial capital is low. Overall, village adaptive capacity averaged 0.16 on a 0-to-1 scale. Social capital was significantly negative in five villages, and the availability and accessibility of natural capital were minimal. These results provide insights for policy interventions aimed at enhancing financial capital and improving access to natural resources, ultimately boosting the adaptive capacity of vulnerable coastal households and communities.
Bellinger, B.J.; Clamann, A., and Reinhard, M., 0000. Efficacy of mitigation planting requirements for lake shore zone developments in Austin, Texas, U.S.A.
The conversion of natural vegetation along lake riparian, shoreline, and littoral zones (collectively referred to as the “shore zone”) to turf grass lawns along with construction of docks, beaches, and revetments can significantly degrade environmental benefits provided by the shore zone. Some regional authorities and municipalities, such as the City of Austin, Texas, have implemented regulations requiring preservation or mitigation of shore zone vegetation communities to reduce the negative influences of anthropogenic development. However, few studies have explicitly evaluated the efficacy of such regulations. This study evaluated the success of required mitigation plantings for developments within the shore zone of Lake Austin, a municipal reservoir surrounded by single-family residences. Results indicate that most sites (51%) had few, if any, of the quantity or diversity of plant species that were required per their site plan, and fewer than 10% exceeded the minimum requirements after final inspection and release of the completed development project. These findings suggest that current regulations and enforcement practices are insufficient to protect and maintain shore zone integrity and therefore its ecosystem services (e.g., faunal habitat, water-quality protection). As lake and river ecological integrity continues to be threatened by anthropogenic activities, it will be imperative for regulating authorities to evaluate the efficacy of development regulations intended to protect shore zone habitats.
Marangoz, H.O., 0000. Time history–based forecasting model on bathymetric depth predictions.
Seabed observations are critical for representing wave dynamics and understanding nearshore morphological changes. In this study, high-resolution bathymetric maps were generated based on field measurements conducted over a 2.5-year period along a coastal region in Rize, Turkey. A time history–based forecasting approach was applied to predict future seabed depth changes over multiple time horizons (2, 5, 10, 20, and 50 years) using statistical models, including linear regression, cubic polynomial regression, and the autoregressive integrated moving average method. Unlike many studies that integrate hydrodynamic parameters such as wave action, sediment transport, or storm surges, this research focused on direct point–based prediction models using only limited-time observed depth values without incorporating external variables. Even though this led to increased uncertainty, some applied models failed to deliver reliable results in long-term forecasts. However, the findings show that linear regression performed more consistently than the other time-dependent models within the observed data set. The outcomes highlight the promising potential of minimalist statistical approaches for bathymetric forecasting and offer support for preliminary decision-making in coastal planning, erosion risk assessment, and sediment evolution monitoring, particularly in data-limited environments.
Udi, E.O.; Numbere, A.O., and Zabbey, N., 0000. Health risk assessment of polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) in biota from remediated crude oil-polluted sites in the Niger Delta, Nigeria.
Human health risk assessment of polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) in crab, periwinkle, and mangrove leaf from polluted and unremediated oil-polluted creeks in Gokana, Nigeria was carried out between April 2023 and January 2024. Samples were collected and taken to the laboratory, prepared, and analyzed for toxic metal content using gas chromatography–mass spectrometry. Results showed PAHs in crab (0.850 ± 0.06 to 2.15 ± 0.16 mg/kg), periwinkle (0.41 ± 0.04 to 1.44 ± 0.16 mg/kg), and mangrove leaf (1.27 ± 0.11 to 5.32 ± 0.52 mg/kg). Most PAHs were of high molecular weight (HMW). Estimated daily intake (EDI) of PAHs for adults and children was below the reference dose across stations and seasons, with higher EDI for low-molecular-weight PAHs compared with HMW PAHs. Benzo[a]pyrene was higher in crab and mangrove leaf and lowest in periwinkle. Concentrations of PAHs in all biota across seasons and stations were all above recommended standards of the World Health Organization/U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (USEPA). The hazard index of crab via ingestion route (HIi) for adults was below the standard limit of 1 but exceeded the limit in Kozo in the wet and dry seasons for children. In periwinkle the HIi values were below the limit. In mangrove leaf, the HIi values for children exceeded the limit in all stations except one in both seasons. The excess cancer risk (ECR) for adults due to crab, periwinkle, and mangrove leaf were below the USEPA limit of 1 × 10−4. The ECR of PAHs in children for crab and periwinkle were above the acceptable limit of the USEPA in Goi (unremediated site) and Kozo (newly remediated sites) in both seasons. This result might indicate that remediation intervention requires years to become effective and that caution should be exercised at least for children, even in recently remediated sites.
Kilar, H. and Aydin, O., 0000. A bibliometric study of shoreline change trends and future predictions (1991–2022): Insights and implications.
Shoreline changes are caused by both natural and human activities. The ability to predict these changes is critical for successful coastal management strategies. This study provides a comprehensive bibliometric analysis of shoreline change and future prediction research conducted from 1991 to 2022. Using the Web of Science database, 2068 articles were analyzed, with the 100 most cited publications examined in detail. The analysis used the Bibliometrix R package and the biblioShiny module for network mapping, identifying dominant themes such as coastal erosion, shoreline change, prediction, forecasting, and geospatial technologies like remote sensing, GIS, and the Digital Shoreline Analysis System (DSAS). The findings of the study indicate a significant rise in publications from 2004 to 2010, peaking at nine publications in 2010. However, from 2010 onward, a decline is observed at varying rates, with a particularly sharp decrease after 2019. Furthermore, although shoreline prediction studies were not among the most frequently cited works, tools like DSAS have become increasingly important within the field. The findings also underscore the interdisciplinary nature of shoreline research, which bridges environmental science, engineering, and technological innovation. The Journal of Coastal Research emerged as the most influential journal, with the highest number of citations and a Hirsch index of 13. As a result, this study offers insights into the development, prevailing trends, and interdisciplinary scope of shoreline change research, serving as a foundation for future investigations and more effective coastal management strategies.
Liu, F.; Chen, Z.; Meng, X., and Xing, B., 0000. Bubble measurement in breaking waves: photograph and optical fiber probe approach.
An image-based method has emerged as the primary technique for measuring bubble size distribution in bubble plumes beneath breaking waves. However, this technique encounters considerable measurement inaccuracies when applied to high void fraction bubble plumes containing a significant number of coalesced and overlapping bubbles. To overcome this limitation, the present study investigates the development of an optical fiber probe enabling integrated measurement of highly concentrated bubble plumes in conjunction with image analysis techniques. Following a structured development protocol that integrates probe structure simulation, fabrication of sensing elements, critical circuit design, and combined observation simulation experiments, this study validates the feasibility of employing the probe for high void fraction bubble plume detection. Subsequently, a correlation model is derived to establish quantitative relationships between the probe’s measurement outputs and the image analysis results. The experimental results demonstrate that the proposed probe achieves effective detection of bubble plumes generated at a gas bubbling rate of 60 cm/s. When implemented in conjunction with image analysis for combined observations, the measurement datasets from both methods exhibit a statistically significant linear correlation, as characterized by the derived model. By integrating the optical fiber probe with the image-based method through sensor packaging design, this probe could serve as a robust complementary approach for characterizing bubble plumes with a high void fraction.
Patsch, K.; Merrill, N.; Horn, D.; Beyeler, M.; Eger, E.; Eger-Beyeler, A., and Sandoval, M., 0000. Estimating beach visitation using mobile device–derived locational data in Southern California, U.S.A.
An applied study estimating beach visitation in Southern California, United States, using mobile device–derived location data is presented. As an emerging tool for visitation analysis, this data source allows for monitoring with high geographic and temporal resolution. The study investigates the potential, challenges, and future research directions of integrating this approach alongside traditional visitation monitoring methods. By combining detailed visitation estimates with inferences about visitors’ geographic origins, the study provides new insights into beach user market areas that were previously unattainable using conventional methods across 50 beaches. On-the-ground visitor counts from 2017 to 2022 were compared with cell phone–derived visitation estimates across 32 beaches, revealing a Pearson correlation coefficient of 0.34, indicating a moderate linear relationship. The scale relationship (field counts, cell phone–derived data) was 0.29; the cell phone–derived data recorded approximately three visitors for every one person counted in the field, on average. These findings highlight the promise and limitations of cell phone data for beach visitation analysis. Future research should focus on integrating traditional and novel techniques to develop a comprehensive and reliable visitor monitoring system.
Spicer, O.N. and Leberg, P.L., 0000. Coyote (Canis latrans) movement and habitat use of a barrier island system in southeastern Louisiana.
Restoration of coastlines not only benefits humans but also supports nesting seabird and shorebird species that are of conservation concern. However, the restored terrain could also support greater numbers of mammalian predators, such as coyotes (Canis latrans). Information on the spatial patterns and habitat preferences of coyotes in coastal systems is severely limited, so tracking their movements and habitat use in these environments would provide spatial ecology data necessary for predator management and avifaunal conservation. This study identified the preferred habitats of coyotes in southeastern Louisiana and recorded any sex differences in home range sizes and diel activity. Six female, and four male coyotes were trapped on the Caminada Headland, Louisiana, and fitted with GPS collars that collected coordinates from November 2023 to April 2024. The 95% home ranges and 50% core areas were estimated using kernel density and minimum convex polygon methodologies. Overall, there was selection for vegetated dune and grassland/shrub habitats in home ranges but no habitat preference in core areas. Beach, marsh, and developed habitats were avoided in both home ranges and core areas. Additionally, there was no significant difference in home range or core area size between female and male coyotes. In general, coyotes traveled farther after midnight through midmorning, and diel activity did not significantly differ between the sexes. This research provides important ecological information about coyotes in coastal Louisiana that could improve predator management to promote nesting success of coastal birds. Future restoration projects could focus on restoring the habitats coyotes avoided to reduce the likelihood of supporting sustainable coyote populations.
Kapitsinis, N.; McKinley, E.; Munday, M.; Thi-Thai Doan, Y., and ThiHoang, T.-H., 0000. Community perceptions of harmful algal blooms, the socioeconomic implications, and policies of mitigation: A case study of Ha Long Bay, Vietnam.
Harmful algal blooms (HABs) occur in coastal areas across the globe. Although ecological understanding of HAB events has improved, the human dimensions of HABs are less well explored. It is evident that understanding community perceptions of HABs is critical to developing long-term solutions. Although recent years have seen a rapid evolution of research into public perceptions of coastal issues more generally, coastal HABs have, to date, received limited attention. This paper contributes to growing this evidence base, presenting an overview of community perceptions on the drivers, impacts, and solutions of HABs. The paper uses the case of Ha Long Bay in Vietnam, drawing insights from a community questionnaire and informed expert interviews. The paper reveals that the threat of HABs can be underestimated by communities because of a lack of public awareness and understanding of the phenomenon. Perceptions varied by the sector in which local people were employed or engaged. Respondents engaged in sectors expected to be most affected by HABs (e.g., tourism and aquaculture) considered HABs to be a marginal threat. The paper recommends better communication tools from local governments to facilitate residents’ understanding of HABs, and place-based policies to address the socioeconomic implications of HABs.
Scerri, R.-M.; Borg, J.A.; Evans, J., and Schembri, P.J., 0000. Baseline environmental survey of the Sukkursu Canal, Salini: The largest transitional water body in Malta.
Although large transitional water bodies on continental Europe, such as estuaries and lagoons, have been well studied and characterised, those present on islands have received less attention. As a small island-state with a semiarid climate, Malta possesses limited areas with transitional waters. The largest such area is a U-shaped canal known as the Sukkursu, which owes its existence to historic coastal modifications dating back to the time of the Knights of St John (16th century). The present study aimed to establish the environmental characteristics of the Sukkursu canal, especially with regard to the macrofauna and macroalgae associated with its submerged water–land interface, and the physical and chemical characteristics of this transitional water body, which is a protected area. Collection of physical, chemical, and biotic data was carried out in all four seasons over a 1-year period from stations established around the canal. Assessment of physical and chemical data included measurements of water current speed and direction, temperature, salinity, turbidity, dissolved oxygen, nutrients (reactive nitrate, phosphates, and ammonia), and chlorophyll-a. Quadrat, core, and hand-net samples were taken to collect biota, which was identified and counted. The results indicated that the water current in the canal predominantly flowed inwards along its wide western arm but was bidirectional to a great extent along the narrower eastern arm, resulting in reduced water flow and eutrophication. Overall, physical and chemical parameters varied significantly at both temporally and spatially. The outer stations differed from the inner ones in having higher macrofaunal abundance, number of macrofaunal species, total number of algal species, and biotic diversity, irrespective of season. Overall, the results obtained infer a strong influence of water movement at the outer stations, which permits replenishment by coastal seawater that has good water quality characteristics, but such influence is weaker at the inner stations.
Garcia-Williams, I.A.; Starek, M.J., and Berryhill, J., 0000. Development of an optimized survey workflow for sandy beaches with mapping-grade mobile LIDAR.
Mapping-grade mobile LIDAR scanning (MLS) systems have increasing appeal for coastal surveying, because they are becoming more cost effective and compact in comparison to the more expensive, higher-caliber, survey-grade MLS systems. Despite the misconception that these systems are plug and play, they should be evaluated, and sources of error must be understood to generate consistent, accurate data. This study assesses a miniaturized, mapping-grade MLS system to develop an optimized, validated survey workflow for rapid coastal corridor mapping of sandy beaches. The MLS system, called the HiWay Mapper, integrates a Velodyne HDL-32E LIDAR scanner, a NovAtel inertial navigation system, and a FLIR Ladybug 360° spherical camera. A four-part framework is introduced, in which a series of rigorous experiments were conducted to evaluate and validate system performance to generate a repeatable workflow for collecting high-accuracy, three-dimensional point cloud data of sandy beaches and foredunes. The framework of (1) sensor characterization and setup, (2) quality assurance, (3) data processing and quality control, and (4) postprocessing will ultimately support the production of georeferenced digital elevation models (DEMs) to monitor geomorphology changes of sandy beach and foredune systems. The final workflow was evaluated on a 4-km stretch of sandy beach on Padre Island National Seashore, Texas. Two surveys were completed on 26 July 2022 and 22 September 2022 to provide examples of workflow repeatability and vertical root-mean-square error (RMSE) measures. The final DEM vertical RMSEs were 0.039 and 0.037 m, respectively. Cross-shore transects were also used to extract metrics to compute shoreline movement, beach width, dune slope, and beach slope to show seasonal dynamics. The experiments, results, and workflow presented herein, along with guidance, should benefit coastal researchers seeking to integrate mapping-grade MLS systems into their data collection workflow.
Mattheus, C.R., 0000. Longshore sand-wave migration and variable beach morphodynamic response to meter-scale water-level rise, southwestern Lake Michigan, U.S.A.
This paper addresses how the downdrift migration of a longshore sand-wave can modify beach morphodynamic response to subdecadal meter-scale lake-level rise. It presents results of a geomorphological monitoring study along ∼1.5 km of natural, unobstructed shoreline at Illinois Beach State Park, SW Lake Michigan. Federal LIDAR datasets from 2008, 2012, and 2020 and more than 5 consecutive years of seasonal topobathymetric surveys (2018–23) provide unparalleled insights into alongshore sediment-transport processes and cross-shore topobathymetric profile adjustments. Meter-scale variances in base water level have occurred over this time, affecting geomorphic developments along this wave-dominated coastline. Migrating at <300 m/y, a pronounced shoreline protuberance of ∼100 m amplitude and >1 km wavelength influenced the following during >1.5 m of lake-level rise from 2013 through 2020: shoreline retreat and overwash into backshore environments along the stoss-ward side and beach-profile accretion and progradation about its apex. Different geomorphic trajectories, although ultimately prompted by the change in lake level and executed by storms, were greatly influenced by the relative position of the migrating sand-wave. Although insights from previous Great Lakes studies point to the significance of migrating sand-waves as a sand-supply mechanism to evolving foredune areas and conceptually frame shoreline morphodynamic behaviors as a function of base-level and sand-supply regime, this paper provides much-needed data constraints. Better understanding littoral sand-transport dynamics on multiyear coastal geomorphic development has tangible implications for effective shoreline management. Models forecasting future coastal change, whether conceptual or numerical, must address the significance of cross-shore vs. along-shore sediment-transport components and their spatiotemporal variances with lake-level change.
Enwright, N.M.; Dalyander, P.S.; Stuht, C.M.; Han, M.; Palmsten, M.L.; Davenport, T.M.; Kingwill, C.J.; Steyer, G.D., and La Peyre, M.K., 0000. Multiscale framework for assessing land cover change on barrier islands from extreme storms and restoration.
Often found along the estuarine-marine interface, barrier islands and mainland coastal zones are shaped by tides, currents, extreme storms, and relative sea-level rise. These systems provide ecosystem services such as storm surge and wave attenuation, erosion protection to inland areas, habitat for fish and wildlife, recreation, and tourism. Given the importance of these ecosystems coupled with their dynamic nature, information on how these coastal systems are changing can help to inform natural resource management. Remote sensing advancements have led to an abundance of data for monitoring change in coastal settings. This study developed a multiscale framework that can provide trajectory information from screening-level analyses by using existing or custom moderate spatial resolution land cover maps. Using the north-central Gulf Coast as a case study, the trajectory of land cover area for barrier islands and mainland coastal zones was assessed using several geospatial data sets, including: (1) long-term moderate-resolution remote sensing products with an annual (or more frequent) temporal frequency; (2) a restoration database (e.g., beach/dune restoration, sediment placement, and dune enhancement); and (3) a tropical storm database. Due to the coarser spatial resolution of data sets used for screening-level analyses, detailed or application-specific analyses are often needed to reduce uncertainty in smaller changes that may not be captured. These may include land cover change analyses (i.e. this study), periodic land cover maps with higher spatial resolution and more detailed land cover classes, or elevation-related analyses (e.g., dune change or inundation change). Using this framework, abrupt changes in land cover on Dauphin Island, Alabama, resulting from extreme storms were detected using moderate spatial resolution screening-level data, while restoration impact analyses may require higher resolution data. Further, land cover change analyses that incorporate change allocation provide robust information for understanding land cover change in dynamic coastal settings.
Appelt, A.M. and Milton, S.L., 0000. Physiological effects of Sargassum beach coverage on three species of sea turtle hatchlings.
Sea turtle hatchlings face a variety of obstacles as they crawl down the beach to the ocean after emergence. One of these obstacles is Sargassum, a floating brown macroalgae that may wash up in large quantities on beaches from Florida to South America. This study examined the physiological response and physical performance of three species of sea turtle hatchlings (Dermochelys coriacea, Caretta caretta, and Chelonia mydas) after crawling over a 13 m sand pathway and then 2 m of two different depths of Sargassum. In all three species, the addition of Sargassum significantly increased the amount of time it took to crawl the length of the pathway vs. a 15 m control with no Sargassum. After the crawl, righting response and blood glucose levels were tested. No significant differences were found in righting response times or blood glucose levels between different crawling treatments within species. During periods of high Sargassum accumulation, hatchlings will spend more time on the beach trying to navigate through the algae, leaving them vulnerable to predation for longer periods of time.
Zollinger, M. and Williams, G.J., Jr., 0000. Impact of ambient conditions on the longevity of quasi-linear convective systems crossing the southeastern U.S. coast.
A climatological study was conducted to investigate the synoptic, mesoscale, and boundary layer factors that governed the longevity of warm-season quasi-linear convective systems (QLCSs) as they passed through the southeastern U.S. Atlantic coastline from 2013 to 2023. QLCSs were classified into three categories (decaying, slowly decaying, and sustaining) based on their longevity once they entered the U.S. southeastern Lowcountry and based upon their evolution when encountering the southeastern Atlantic coastline. Results show that 95% of QLCSs (88 out of 93) dissipated within 100 km of the Atlantic Coast. Although cold pool strength and convective instability were not clear discriminators between the three categories of QLCSs, the two distinguishing features for the five sustaining systems were the presence of surface fronts (along with the ambient vertical wind shear and the synoptic-scale forcing associated with them) and anomalous warmer sea-surface temperatures relative to land. These results indicate that the marine environment of the southeastern Atlantic Ocean serves as a deterrent to QLCS maintenance, and sustaining QLCSs are driven primarily by external forcing mechanisms (such as frontal boundaries and upper-tropospheric jet streams) rather than internal forcing mechanisms (such as lifting along the cold pool boundary).
Mattheus, C.R.; Spitzer, E.; Rosario, L., and Pearce, K., 0000. Storm deposits in context of seasonal through decadal water-level variances and beach geomorphic change, southwestern Lake Michigan.
Decadal changes in base water level, which are up to 2 m in magnitude, and storms capable of generating waves >3 m in height affect many beach shorelines of the North American Great Lakes. Still, few geomorphic studies have addressed coastal morphodynamics under such complex and ever-changing lake hydrodynamic conditions. With extensive topographic monitoring activities underway since 2018 along Illinois’s portion of Lake Michigan coast, new avenues to systematically categorize and contextualize geomorphic change dynamics are available. This study offers a detailed assessment of beach topographic evolution along a historically progradational section of unobstructed shoreline along Illinois Beach State Park, located along the downdrift portion of a migrating ridge-plain promontory. Insights from pre- and poststorm topographic and colocational subsurface geophysical assessments are evaluated in context of seasonal through decadal patterns of geomorphic change. Study insights provide context for the effects of storms on beach-profile evolution over various lake-level positions, providing an architectural blueprint for subsurface depositional structures. This serves as a prerequisite for late Holocene paleo-reconstructions. lake-level rise-induced backshore accretion by way of shoreline-overwash processes occurred with minor changes to the shoreline position, with sand influx–facilitating profile aggradation in response to >1.5 m of lake-level rise between 2012 and 2020. Subsequent beach-profile adjustments, from 2020 to 2023, occurred only along the foreshore during rising and peak water levels, in response to ∼1 m fall in lake level. Pre- and poststorm subsurface reflection geophysical records, from the ∼3 m wave event in October 2023, resolve an ∼0.5 m thick storm deposit atop a ravinement surface, only a part of which is accounted for by topographic profile comparisons. Paleo-tempestite preservation potentials are reduced with post-2020 lowering of lake level by ∼1 m; nonetheless, the addition of ground-penetrating radar in monitoring provides a more thorough assessment of event-based geomorphic change.
Ye, Y.; Lin, Y.-T.; Shi, H.; Jiao, P., and He, Z., 0000. Coastal observation system integrating binocular-vision and large-scale particle image velocimetry techniques for monitoring wave dynamics and morphological changes.
An improved coastal observation system integrating binocular-vision method with large-scale particle image velocimetry was developed and validated for nearshore wave and morphological monitoring in swash zones. This system incorporates an advanced detector-free matching algorithm, the local feature transformer, which enables high-quality matches in regions with low texture or repetitive patterns. In addition, a new calculation method based on the velocity-area principle was proposed to estimate wave-overtopping discharge. The system showed strong performance in estimating water-level fluctuations, swash zone morphology, surface velocity, and wave-overtopping discharge, with errors of less than 11% compared with field measurements. Field applications during the typhoon event in 2024 (Typhoon Prapiroon) further demonstrated the system’s capability and feasibility. This system has the potential to significantly advance the development of early-warning systems for coastal disaster prevention and mitigation in the future.
Phillips, A. and Bastola, S., 0000. Assessing vegetation and shoreline responses in reduced wave climates using Google imagery.
Segmented breakwaters are a well-known shoreline protection feature used throughout various coastal environments. These structures can produce a range of shoreline responses, including tombolo and salient features. These responses depend on the sediment properties, geometry, and hydraulic properties of the structure, wave energy, and associated spectra. Numerical and empirical approaches are widely used to predict the shoreline response of the structure. However, there are limited studies on the vegetative response of segmented breakwaters. Vegetation, despite being a more natural shoreline feature that may provide additional levels of protection while providing a habitat for plants and animals, is rarely included in current design efforts that consider structural shoreline protection. This study has a twofold objective. The first part is to review the detached breakwater database to assess the empirical shoreline response classification system, and the second part is to focus on exploring the drivers of vegetative response by using Google imagery and satellite data on the vegetation growth behind such structures. The study tested the existing shoreline response function in predicting shoreline and vegetive response for three project sites from coastal Louisiana. Empirical classifiers observed significant variation in the predicted shoreline response, indicating that despite providing insights, their applicability should be carefully evaluated for each location. Several projects fell into classifications that did not reflect real-world conditions. The shoreline and vegetative response of the three detached breakwaters based on historical imagery of the study site and the analysis of the normalized difference vegetation index estimated from Sentinel satellite data behind the detached breakwater showed varying degree of vegetative response. Predicting the vegetative response of detached breakwaters is crucial, because it influences the stability of the shoreline behind these structures. For shoreline protection and restoration efforts to be effective, designers must include vegetation and habitat considerations in the design process.
